Wednesday Night Worlds Racing

How to get started

So you have seen the racing and you want to play? Its your lucky day! We have summarized the popular kits, electronics and brands used at Electrosport for racing.

Get out to the track

The biggest first step is to come out to the track and watch some RC racing in real life. See how a race night is run, introduce yourself and meet some of the racers, see what gear guys are racing and ask questions. We even have loaner cars to try a few laps (email me at rcloaner@nesbot.com during the racing season (mid April to mid Nov) or find me in the FB group to book the loaner). 99% of potential racers get hooked after their first few laps so this is a great place to start.

Don't be different (at least to start with)

We highly recommend sticking with the more popular race brands for their local parts support, and Wednesday Night Race support! Team Associated (AE) and Team Losi Racing (TLR) are by far the most popular and best supported local brands. With other brands parts availability will be online only and typically require 10+ days to get to you. Schumacher, Yokomo and X-ray are all great brands but getting parts online will keep you from racing the following week.

Racing Classes

The most popular classes are 1/10 2wd Buggy and 1/10 4wd Buggy. If 5+ Trucks show up we will race them together, we need a minimum of 6 to run a race as the expectation is that the truck class has enough entries to be marshals for the next heat and not rely on others to cover.

Buying Used

Who doesn't want to save money? Buying your first buggy used (preferably from a local racer) is a great way to start. You can generally get into the hobby for 1/2 the price of new. Just be aware of the components and compare them to our list below to make sure each is of good quality.

Some terms to be aware of when shopping used buggies:
RTR: Ready to run (typically still missing receiver and maybe transponder)
aRTR: "Almost" ready to run (generally can still be missing a transmitter, receiver, transponder or sometimes a battery
Roller: A used buggy with no electronics (ESC, motor, servo, battery, transmitter, receiver, transponder) but includes tires
Slider: A used buggy with no electronics and no tires

1/10 2wd vs 4wd Buggy, which to get first?

Ah, good question, which to get you ask? Right off the bat some will say get a 2wd first because it will teach you have to drive and you won't develop bad habits from the start, "If you can drive a 2wd buggy then you can drive anything". Others will say start with a 4wd buggy since they are easier to drive. While that's all fine and dandy I think there is more to it than that. Specifically for racing at Electrosport, if the track traction is low then 2wd can be a handful while 4wd definitely has more control. With the traction we have racing at Electrosport I think you can easily make an equal argument to say that 2wd is actually easier to drive with the right tires. As the traction level gets higher 4wd is a handful and can get twitchy. 2wd is also cheaper to start out with and easier to maintain. If I was starting out I would get a 1/10 2wd buggy and go from there.

Is setup important?

Sure, but not as important as tires!! Let that sink in. In order of importance I would focus on tires first, tires second, tires third, electronics fourth, car/setup fifth. I like to think of setup as having a "window" for the track you race on, you just need to get your car into that window and then for the average racer (especially new ones) changing 1mm here or there won't be noticed. Once you have a car made within the last 5 years that is in the "setup" window outfitted with some decent electronics I would focus on tires and tire prep. Changing a spring, shock oil or adding 1mm of camber spacers won't be as noticeable as running the wrong tire compound or tread height. Choose your tires by compound first, tread second and then play with tread height when necessary.

Improving

Practice, practice, practice, nothing beats track time. Did I mention practice?

Component Recommendations

1/10 2wd Buggy 1/10 4wd Buggy
Cars and Kits

The two most popular brands that are supported locally are Team Associated (AE) and Team losi racing (TLR).


The best race ready RTR kit on the market for Electrosport is the RB10 from Team Associated. You only need to add a battery, charger and probably want to get tires for our track. RB10 RTR 2WD Buggy Brushless Blue

TLR has a pre-assembled race kit available 22 5.0 DC Race Roller 1/10 2WD Buggy Dirt/Clay

If you fancy building a kit then the locally supported race kits would be AE B6.4D or the TLR 22 5.0 DC Elite.


While there are no RTR or pre-assembled 4wd race kits available the 2 locally supported cars would be the B74.1d from AE and the 22x-4 from TLR
Tires

Throwing down new tires will feel horrible on the track. Use one of the many break-in methods (or just run them down on a practice day) to ~50% tread height - and sometimes less. Slicks can be quick if you stay on the racing line. Sauce with Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil 10-15 minutes before each run.


Proline tread option:
Fronts MC electron
Rears MC positron

Proline "almost" slick option:
Fronts MC shadow
Rears MC shadow

JConcepts tread option:
Fronts Silver ellipse
Rears Silver ellipse

JConcepts tread option (last longer):
Fronts Gold ellipse
Rears Gold ellipse


Proline tread option:
Fronts MC electron
Rears MC positron

Proline "almost" slick option:
Fronts MC shadow
Rears MC shadow

JConcepts tread option:
Fronts Silver ellipse
Rears Silver ellipse

JConcepts tread option (last longer):
Fronts Gold ellipse
Rears Gold ellipse

ESC

The electronic speed controller is the brain for the car. Be sure to read the manual to get a basic understanding of the programming options. Easily the most popular brand of ESC at the track is Hobbywing, they make three different ESC's which are limited only by the motor you plan to use with them. The big dog of them all is the XR10 Pro which you'll find in some 2wds and nearly every 4wd! Pair the ESC amp / motor limit based on the motor you plan to run.

You'll also want the programmer for your ESC which makes it quick to make trackside changes for changing conditions. Hobbywing offers a bluetooth wireless version and a LCD programming box:
OTA Programmer Bluetooth
Multifunction LCD Program Box


HW Justock G3
60 amp, motor limit >=10.5T, no boost/turbo, very little programming

XeRun XR10 PRO Stock Spec v4
80 amp, motor limit >=13.5T, boost/turbo with lots of programming options

XeRun XR10 Pro G2S
160 amp, motor limit >=5.5t, boost/turbo with lots of programming options

The ESC programming options to soften the bottom end on a 2wd buggy can be the difference between struggling out of corners and it being a pleasure to drive
XR10 pro 2wd Ordog setup


Most drivers run a faster motor in their 4wd than 2wd so I would tend to stick with the higher amp ESC choices. With a 13.5t motor I would use the pro stock, but for any faster motor I would jump right to the xr10 pro. While I tend to shy away from buying a "used up" motor, a used ESC (even previous generation) is worth considering.

XeRun XR10 PRO Stock Spec v4
80 amp, motor limit >=13.5T, boost/turbo with lots of programming options

XeRun XR10 Pro G2S
160 amp, motor limit >=5.5t, boost/turbo with lots of programming options

Motor

It's not about putting the most power into your ride, it's about putting in the most power YOU can handle. Fast laps are make or break in the corners (not on the straight!) and for most drivers a faster motor translates to wider corners resulting in slower lap times. Racers all have their preferred brand, so what's the difference in two motors of similar wind? Materials, magnets, construction and rotor size. Some are simply a higher quality than others and not only provide the power but smooth linear throttle and don't over heat.

For both 2wd and 4wd any A-main racer using a spec motor will still beat a C-main racer with a mod motor... all to say its the driver, not the motor that wins races at the club level.


New racers would do well with a 17.5t or 13.5t motor. A 13.5t while a tad faster will make it easier to clear the jumps. You can always add some boost once you get more comfortable driving.

A special note here for 2wd buggy, a lot of racers turn to a smaller rotor for 2wd to lessen the torque on the bottom end.

Reedy S-Plus 13.5t
XeRun V10 G3R 13.5T

A common motor for seasoned drivers is an 8.5t which is plenty fast in a 2wd buggy, but know there is nothing wrong with running a 9.5t or 10.5t either.

Reedy Sonic M4 8.5t
XeRun V10 G3 8.5T

Honourable mention to Maclan racing just because that is what I run and their default rotor is a softer/smoother 12.2mm


New racers would do well with a 13.5t motor in 4wd as well. Again, some boost can make a hot 13.5t feel like an 8.5t on the track. If you are a newer racer and only have access to a faster 8.5t or 6.5t motor a quick trick is using the transmitter to limit the forward EPA to make it slower and let you 'grow' into the speed.

Reedy S-Plus 13.5t
XeRun V10 G3R 13.5T

A common motor for seasoned drivers is a 6.5t which is plenty fast and too much to handle for some. The a-main is usually filled with anywhere from an 10.5t - 5.5t, but have I mentioned its not the motor?!?

Reedy Sonic M4 6.5t
XeRun V10 G3 6.5T
Servo

This isn't drag racing, we have corners! While the plastic kit servo horns have come a long way, a common first upgrade is swaping out to an aluminum servo horn.


While there are lots of options on the market the local favourite for 2wd buggy is the Savox 1258tg. The 2 specs of note are the speed and torque. This savox has a speed of 0.08 Sec/60* @ 6.0V and a torque rating of 166 oz-in (12 kg-cm) @ 6.0V. You can use your transmitter to slow down a servo but you can't speed up a slow one.

Savox 1258TG

A lot of drivers use the same savox 1258TG in their 4wd buggy as well. It definitely works if you stay on the line, but if you tend to rub the pipes a little too often, something with slightly more torque and steel gears might be better for you. Sticking with the savox brand the 1267SG provides 180 oz-in of torque @ 6.0V and 0.11 Sec/60* @ 6.0V for speed. It is also a high voltage servo which allows you to run it at 7.4v which jumps the torque up to 291 oz-in and speed to 0.09 sec/60*.

Savox 1267SG
Battery

I have the power! Don't get caught up with C rating, at the club level it just doesn't matter. While we run 2s lipos and most now are LiHv (high voltage, 4.35v) you can still only charge them to 4.2v per cell (8.4v total) for racing.


I like my 2wd heavier than min weight so a larger pack is the easiest way to add some weight near the middle of the car. A common 2wd battery is the 5100mah redline pack from Gens Ace (~210g). Plenty of power and easily capable of running back to back with a bump-up even with a power sucking mod motor.

Gens ACE Li-Po 130C 5100mAh 7.6V HV Hard Case 5mm Bullet

Honourable mention to the Reedy Zappers of similar mah/weight.


4wd cars are already heavy enough with the extra drivetrain parts and with our 5 minute mains we like a lighter battery. The protek 4600mah is only 165g and balances the motor perfectly on the other side. It even has enough juice to run back to back with a bump-up with minimal voltage drop, ask me how I know!

ProTek 2S 120C LCG Shorty LiPo Battery (7.6V/4600mAh)
ProTek 2S 130C Low IR Si-Graphene + HV LCG Shorty LiPo Battery (7.6V/4800mAh)
Transmitter / receiver

Futaba and Sanwa are the 2 most popular brands for racing. Something to keep in mind is that your radio will last for years and years if you treat it right.


I am a Futaba guy so here are the top 3 offerings from Futaba based on price, features and physical size. Don't get caught up with speed and latency, at the club level it just doesn't win races. I like the "-E" recievers for electric buggies as the antenna is internal so it helps keep your wiring neat.

Futaba 7PXR
Futaba 4PM
Futaba 3PV
Receiver R304SB-E TFHSS
Receiver R204GF-E SFHSS

and from Sanwa

M17
MT-44
MX-6
Transponder / PT

To race you will need a transponder. It's what sends the signal to the race computer to track your lap times. Mount it in your car, preferably horizontally and not directly on metal or carbon fibre for the best signal. You'll need one per car, swapping between heats is doable but not worth the embarassment when you inevitably forget.


Not a lot of options here, the good thing is that these little guys hold their value over time. The only thing to note here is that the Hybrid (2-wire) is backwards compatible with older timing systems while the standard (3-wire) only works with RC4 decoders.

MyLaps RC4 Hybrid Direct Power Transponder
Mylaps RC4 Standard Transponder
R9852 MRT mPTX Transponder

If you are buying used refer to this chart to ensure its compatible at Electrosport.

Charger

We run one battery per car. There is more than enough time between heats to charge it back up to full capacity.


All of the previous good chargers required external power supplies. More recently we have changed to smaller chargers that get the job done and generally now are AC/DC but we don't bother with the DC. Dual port chargers are great especially if you have 2 cars or a friend.

We charge our 2s racing batteries on a Wednesday night at 8amps between heats and the charger stops with plenty of time left over before the next round. If your battery is say a 5100mah pack then a 1C charge rate would be 5.1amps (see what I did there?!?). Most manufactures say you can safely charge at a 2C rate (1C charge rate recommended for longest life) and you can see with our 4600mah (4wd buggy) and 5100mah (2wd buggy) I charge at 1.7C and 1.5C rates respectively on a race night.

iSDT D2 200W AC Charger
HOTA D6 with wireless charging for your phone
Hota D6 Plus
SKYRC D100 V2 AC/DC Dual Multi Charger

Tools

What did you just call me? Buy them once and forget about it. After your first stripped screw you'll only buy the good set.


Hex drivers: 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm

MIP Metric Hex Wrench Set
Dynamite Machined Metric Hex Driver Set
Arrowmax drivers
ASC Hex/nut driver set

For that inevitable electric screwdriver in your future... really only need 2.0mm speed tip for 1/10 buggies.

Speed Tip 2.0mm Wrench
ASC Standard Hex Driver 5/64" (2.0mm)

Nut drivers : 5.5mm, 7mm

MIP Nut Drive Set Metric 5.5/7.0mm
Dynamite nut driver 7mm Dynamite nut driver 5.5mm
Arrowmax nut drivers

Shock pliers

ProTek RC "TruTorque" Shock Shaft Pliers
Tekno Multi-Purpose Shock/Ball End Tool

Calipers

Digital caliper with LCD screen

Tire Break-in

AKA 1/10 Tire Break-In Tool

Tire gluing bands

Satellite Tire Gluing Rubber Bands Blue (4)

Soldering station

MPS my pit space (requires power supply), Weller, Hakko, something 60+ watt

Non-RC specific items you'll see in the pits

  • Plano stowaway boxes
  • Simple green (cleaning tires and plastics)
  • Yoga mat from the $ store make great pit mats
  • Liquid wrench penetrating oil (tire sauce)
  • WD-40 Specialist Dirt & Dust Resistant Dry Lube PTFE Spray (keeps your plastics clean and dust easily wipes off)
  • Leather punch (punching holes in tire inserts for quick break-in)
Carrier

How do I get this stuff to the track? You either roll it or carry it on your back.


I prefer the backpack myself, but you'll see both roller bags and backpacks in the pits at Electrosport on Wednesday nights.

WingTote : Pro roller Buggy tote
MEWAY 42L Military Tactical Backpack

Others swear by Ogio bags but I'll let you search those up on your own.